Every F250/350/Excursion owner has been dealing with this since the early 2000's. If you take the end cap off the motors, remove the small square coated metal plate that conducts the current, wrap it in tin foil and put it back in the slot it will hit harder than it ever did when new and lasts for years. Now the aftermarket supplies the complete units at a fraction of what the dealer used to get for them. They used to call it the 5 cent fix. Others cut a penny into the same size and used that.

I was just quoted about $400 per door...they said the part was 325 and .5 hours in labor...WTF? 325 part??? The lady at my local dealership told me to call Toyota since I already had one done and now have two more out. Is there no TSB for this yet?

the dealership isn't going to take apart the actuator to replace the motor, they have to replace the entire actuator so that's why the part is so expensive. also, that replacement actuator will also die, they haven't solved the problem (i think someone here was on their 5th set of actuators)

you don't have to be skilled or experienced to replace the motor, even if it's the first time you've attempted to do something on your vehicle you shouldn't have any issue if you follow the writeup and videos


My driver's side failed around 35k miles, passenger around 45k miles and rear doors started sounding sluggish at same time around 45k (i didn't bother with warranty because i knew they would just replace with the same part that will faila gain)

My drivers and left rear passenger door lock actuators both failed and I had them replaced at a local shop for between $400-500.

Now my right rear actuator is failing. My car is at the dealer (airbag recall) and he gave me a ballpark $500 price estimate.

It's incredibly frustrating that this is happening so frequently on a 2016 TE. Sounds like a totally crap design.

I appreciate the how-to. I'm not sure I'm enough of a do-it-yourselfer to do it.

A bit off topic - but mind sharing where that view is from? Would love to go visit, and looks like you're from Houston so hopefully not too far.

Not too far at all...Padre Island National Seashore - https://www.nps.gov/pais/index.htm

You should go check it out!

Thanks for the great write-up, it helped a ton!

I'm having an issue after install that I'm hoping maybe someone can help me with. The actuator fix worked - I can lock/unlock from the key fob which I couldn't do once it died. But now I can only open the door from the interior of the car. When I try to open it from the outside, I get a hollow "thunk" sound and nothing happens. I know it's something stupid I missed when putting everything back together, but I can't figure out what!

It sounds like you didn't install the actuator correctly. The exterior handle functions a rod/lever that sits into the actuator.
-Pull the exterior handle, the rod attached to it inside the door moves, that rod then engages the actuator.-
That rod most likely is not lined up with the actuator properly after you installed it.

Does anyone know the if the FC-280PT-22125 is the same as the 280PC? I can’t find the PT with the standard length flat shaft. Thanks in advance and I hope I didn’t miss this somewhere.


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no idea, but here is the PT with flat shaft (it's also half the price of that amazon one):
Mabuchi Nichibo Door Lock Motor Flat or Round Shaft 20mm or 10mm FC-280PC-22125 | eBay

My drivers side died last night, in searching for parts I found what appears to be the entire assembly replacement for under $50.00 on Amazon while Toyota is quoting $222.00 ? Can someone let me know if this looks like what I need to order ? If I get this part I can just swap it out correct, don't have to disassemble the old and and replace the motor or add a motor to this new part?

I'd much rather just swap the whole thing for new if its only $30.00 difference and I have some Amazon credit to use. Thanks in advance

https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Comp...latch+actuator

I've had the same problem with both of my front doors and that's the part that I used. I wish I had known that I could just replace the motor but the new assemble has worked fine for me twice.

they haven't fixed the part in the full assembly though, so it will die again

This appears to a non Toyota part so maybe the motor is not the same ?

Any ideas on how one would be able to get a door open where the actuator wont release/unlock? 2003 4 Runner. Panel can't be pulled off with the door closed. Tried a slim Jim down the window. Power locks open and close, but door will not open from the inside or outside. I ordered a replacement actuator so I can see if there is a way to release it with a tool through the window or perhaps a hole-saw through the door panel as a last resort. I suspect the issue may involve the locking cable because the power locks open it but when locking it, the locking button doesn't quite close all the way.

Any ideas would be welcomed.